Nearly ready...

We've been working on a full account of the trip for your viewing pleasure and it's nearly ready.
It's taken longer than we thought it would. Alex's internet connection is on the blink, which isn't helping get it done very fast and Oli is pretty busy with work at the moment. We hope that it'll be worth the wait when it arrives in the next few days!

Thanks for being patient.

Home

We've been back a few days now and are beavering away at getting photos and a proper account of the trip sorted. Hoping to have it done this week but Oli is mega busy so this week could quite easily become next. Bear with us!


We've been having a bit of a think about where we want the money to go and had our decision helped along by a comment left on the blog. Since they were kind enough to thank and praise us (flattery will get you everywhere) and because they operate on a stretch quite popular with canoeists (where a stack of the money raised has come from - good job, Song of the Paddle forum) we'll be directing the cash at Loch Ness!
I spoke with their main man, Ewan Cameron, yesterday and he's very grateful to each and every person who donated.

"We run on donations and volunteers alone. We really do rely on the public to keep going."


So a massive thank you if you have donated.
If you haven't yet but would like to, there's still time! http://www.justgiving.com/bensbyboat2009

Day 13

We breakfasted on our last six ginger nut biscuits and started treading the path up Ben Nevis at 08:00. We allowed plenty of time for what would normally be a simple up and down trip as Oli's right knee hasn't quite been the same since the particularly tricky portage into the cove near Hopman. The walk itself was uneventful. The weather was excellent but the path wasn't very interesting at all. We were pleased to reach the summit and mark the successful completion of the expedition and enjoyed a huge feeling of satisfaction on the equally boring path down.


The last two weeks have been fantastic; hard work at times but well worth the effort. We're now looking forward to getting back home, having a shower and a good meal and sorting out the photos and videos from the trip. We're back late tomorrow night and hopefully should have a more thorough account of the trip on the blog before the end of the week.

Day 12

Quite an early start and on the canal before 07:00 this morning (after a short portage along the road from Laggan Youth Hostel). We got onto Loch Lochy a few minutes before daylight and paddled with a light wind at our backs for once! We weren't going to miss the opportunity the weather had finally given us and pulled in to rig the sail. The wind was getting up quickly by now and we spent a glorious (if cold) hour speeding along under sail, surfing the waves going down the Loch. The wind died and was replaced with brilliant sunshine and we paddled the last two miles as the mist burnt off the valley.
We elected to paddle the River Lochy rather than the canal to finish the trip. We reckoned on it speeding us along with the flow and delivering us to downtown Fort William in double quick time (Oli needed to be on the 14:15 bus to Inverness to pick up the car from where we left it nearly two weeks ago). The way was littered with shallow sections and hundreds of fishermen, which slowed progress considerably, but the biggest problem was to come about three miles from the end. We rounded a corner to find a very short section of quite lumpy water. We could see a line down it but didn't fancy taking the risk of a swim (it was the biggest white water we saw all through the trip) if it went wrong. The portage past it was short but arduous and time consuming. We arrived at Fort William just before 14:00, pulling into a grotty inlet a bit before the pier with barely enough time for a photograph before Oli raced for the station. Several hours later Oli returned with the car and Alex pryed himself from the comfortable armchair at the pub to meet him.
We're now in Glen Nevis where we'll spend the night ready to climb Ben Nevis tomorrow morning.

Day 11

Quite a big paddling day today.

We got on the water at 07:30 and headed onto a perfect Loch Ness. The sun hadn't yet properly risen but it was shirt-sleeves warm already. The water was mirror flat, there was barely a breath of wind and we were making great progress.

Our luck couldn't last though and after an hour of perfect conditions the wind started to blow in our faces. Later, the rain came and it was quite grey for a while. We pushed on and near enough exactly eight hours after leaving our camp we were at Fort Augustus at the south end of the loch. We portaged up past the locks, popped into the shop to pick up some food (we'd somehow nearly finished our 3kg of pasta) and then started paddling the section of the Caledonian Canal leading to Loch Oich. We made good progress, although hindered by having to portage two locks, and got to the beginning of Lock Oich at around 19:00. We had a quick second lunch before heading off onto the dusky loch. No wind and perfectly flat water to start with but quite quickly a moderate tailwind and some rain whipped up. We were pleased to have the wind at our backs for once and sped down the loch, under the bridge at the other end and back onto the canal.

Our target was to find Laggan Youth Hostel. We got ourselves to the appropriate section of canal for a fairly decent 20:30 but after having difficulties getting the boat around and finding suitable paths we didn't make it to the youth hostel until nearly 22:00. The facilities are excellent - This is being posted from the internet enabled computer that they have one of in every room!

Day 10

When we got up the wind was a bit lighter than yesterday so we took our chance and struck out across the bay. It was quite choppy for so far inland but progress was surprisingly good. It took us about an hour and a half to reach Kessock Bridge, a good milestone.

We paddled a little further up the coast to the sea lock to pick up our canal licence and have lunch. We portaged past the Muirtown locks (locks don't work for canoes unfortunately) and hit the canal. It was nice to be on some smooth water after almost a week at sea. The wind was, of course, in our faces but we still made fast progress, especially without the waves. We stopped off for much needed showers just before getting onto Loch Dochfour and have continued to the beginning of Loch Ness. We're camped on a small beach near the entrance and are hoping to make the other end tomorrow.

Day 9

Early start this morning and the weather looked promising. Alas, this was to change. No sooner had we got on the water the wind (in our faces, naturally) picked up and the skies went grey. We had paddled for about and hour before we decided we were getting nowhere fast. Battling the wind, tide and rain had also dampened our spirits.
So another portage it had to be. Some thrashing about in the gorse uncovered a track, which we followed to the back of one of Fort George's firing ranges. Here we joined another, which led us straight out of the camp gates. The range wardens may well have been perplexed at seeing two chaps with a canoe wandering off their firing range but fortunately they showed no sign of imprisoning us.
We portaged past the airport, past a cemetery and through a golf course to get back on the water just after lunchtime. The wind was still in our faces but the tide was with us enough to allow better progress than earlier (although still not good enough to get under Kessock Bridge today).
We're camped south of Arltulie Point hoping the wind and rain currently battering the tent will disappear before tomorrow.

Day 8

Yesterday's rough seas and strong winds had thankfully disappeared by the time we woke up this morning. Not wanting to waste good weather we got on the water pretty sharpish and made good progress towards Nairn. We had a bit of wind in our faces but less than when crossing Burghead Bay.
After five hours paddling we pulled into Nairn harbour and headed for the town centre. We picked up some food for the next few days and fish and chips for lunch. Tourists and locals alike took an interest in the canoe nestled amongst the sailing and fishing boats.
The best sea paddling of the trip came this afternoon. We left Nairn harbour to find glassy smooth seas and shallow, gentle swell. The hazy sun of the morning had been replaced with slightly dull skies but there was't a breath of wind. We got up to a good speed and were at the end of Whiteness Head only two hours later. We're now camped in the dunes near the mouth of the lagoon listening to the seals (we counted seventeen of them when we landed here!) flap about on the beach.

Day 7

Unfortunately the Met Office got something right for once and the strong westerly they predicted has arrived. No chance of making any progress paddling against a force 5 so we're in the tent for the day.
But all is not lost - We've used the time wisely, to brush up on our porridge cookery and needlecraft!
The wind is meant to be swinging all over the place for the next day or so, hopefully including a south-easterly we could do with, so we should be able to make progress again tomorrow.

Day 6

Our initial plan this morning was to launch from Hopeman harbour but as the sea conditions had improved so dramatically we decided to launch from a sandy cove close to where we had camped. We then followed the coast to Burghead before starting the long paddle across Burghead Bay. This proved to be very hard work as a brisk headwind had built up. We arrived at the dunes near Findhorn in time for lunch and a chat with a nice local chap. After lunch we launched again and followed the coast westwards but the going was slow due to currents and the wind. After a tiring hour we decided there was little point in using so much energy to make so little progress. We landed again and portaged up the beach to find a campsite.
We found a nice one and are now sat by the fire amongst the dunes along the edge of the Culbin Forest.

Day 5

We got up late today, enjoying the comfort and convenience of the pill box. A nice chap called Keith, a member of the Song of the Paddle web forum, came by to see how we were doing (knowing where to find us from yesterday's blog). We chatted about the sea conditions and he kindly gave us his phone number if a contingency plan was needed.
The sea was calmer than yesterday but the breakers were still large enough. We bided our time and took a run up when we thought the incoming waves were small ones. The first breaker, however small, crashed into Oli's face and settled in the bottom of the canoe (about six inches of water) but we were able to push through the others and get to the more pleasant sea behind. The swell was about two metres high but not steep enough to pose a problem.
We made fairly good progress but after an hour and a half the weather and sea conditions were getting a bit worse. We decided to head into Lossiemouth harbour rather than commit to the long rocky section of coast to the West. We had lunch, talked to the harbourmaster and went to the pub to dry out for a couple of hours.
By now, being quite late in the day and the weather not ideal, we opted to portage to the next harbour so as not to lose too much ground. We camped near a quarry to the East of Hopeman ready to put in at the harbour.

Day 4

Weather was pretty much the same as yesterday. Starting well, then rain (about an hour) and then good for the rest of the day.
Progress was again good. The Spey doesn't change massively along its course but we knew when we saw big red river cliffs that we weren't far from the sea. We were quite surprised when we got to the last bridge over the Spey. The place was a wasteland! Piles of trees and debris littered the beaches, dragged from upstream and then dumped by the storms a few weeks ago.
Rounding the last bend we could see the sea. We could also see waves. Crashing frothy big waves...
We paddled along a lagoon to the village of Kingston to see if the waves would be any more gentle. They were, but not gentle enough. The breakers would thrash and soak us before we could get to the rolling sea behind them.
We've come a little along the coast on foot and are camped in a pillar pill box about half way to Lossiemouth.

Day 3

Woke up this morning to smooth flowing water, blue skies and brilliant sunshine. We got on the water just before 09:00 and made good time on the flat stuff until Cromdale. By now it was raining (only lasted an hour though) and the water was rougher. There were plenty of small rapids, which were fun but not too testing.
The roughest water came just before Knockando, where we did get a bit splashed, and there were still plenty of smaller lumps and bumps up to where we're camped, just downstream of Charlestown of Aberlour.
Hoping to reach the sea tomorrow and that the good weather continues.

Day 2

Had a lie in this morning to recover from yesterday's exertions. Got down to Loch Insh, sorted gear and paddled away from the beach at a leisurely 13:00. It only took us a few minutes to get onto the Spey, which we've followed for about 15 miles. Current was reasonably swift with some small rapids.
Now sitting by the campfire a little downstream of Boat of Garten. Bed soon. Plenty to do tomorrow.

Day 1

Day 1 was long. Very long.
We started walking at 05:45, watched the sun rise from Cairngorm summit at 07:00 and were on top of Ben Macdui for 09:30. We could have stopped here but across the Lairig Ghru lay more mountains to conquer. These took us much more time than we were reckoning on and were hard work. We got back to the car at 21:00, absolutely shattered.
We're planning on looking back on the experience fondly once we've fully recovered!

Day 0

Have been driving today. Weather has been good and we have made good progress.
Had a run in with the law at Pitlochry about how the canoe was strapped on. They were surprised we'd made it so far without already being pulled over. Straps were altered (better visibility) and everything amicably sorted at the station.
Just dropped into Glenmore Lodge to leave details of our route and check the weather forecast. We've been luckly and have got the only bit of high pressure there's been in ages.
All looking good for an early start tomorrow.

Packed

Alex has just about stuffed the last pack of biscuits and box of matches into the bags and barrels. 03:10 ish is not bad going for him actually. Packing for trips like this has before been known to last until daylight at Castle Purser.
Everything fits and will stay dry and Alex can hopefully remember which barrel he put the car keys in the bottom of. Julie's cake is large and dense enough to have its own gravitational field and had to be packed at the geometric centre of everything else to avoid imbalance.

The overall weight of equipment, food and clothes is, technically speaking, lots. Before adding Oli's rucksack (more than likely light as a feather) Alex's bathroom scales estimate something in the region of 164lbs of stuff (before a few loose bits and pieces) coming along for the ride.


Less than five hours until kick off.

Technology

Despite being the plan all along it's only now, the night before we leave, that Alex has gotten round to checking that updating the blog from his mobile will work.
If you are reading this then it is relatively safe to assume that Alex's Blackberry and the blog are in functional harmony. If you can't read this then Alex is cursing the information super-highway with all his might.

The Off

We are now all packed (or at least almost packed) and ready to go. We did some shopping for supplies earlier and bought lots of pasta, tuna and biscuits incase we don't catch any fish. We also have a large fruit cake kindly provided by Julie which should provide enough energy to keep us going for several weeks! We're driving up early tomorrow, hoping to arrive around dusk. We'll then get a few hours sleep and start the walk before dawn on Monday. You can check out what the weather might be like at the top of Ben Macdui at:
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Cairngorm/6day/top

We are due to officially start canoeing on Tuesday, hopefully to make the sea by the end of the week. You can check out the sea state forecast for Lossiemouth at:
http://www.surf-forecast.com/breaks/Lossiemouth/forecasts/latest/six_day

Only a short post today as it's best to get some sleep before a 12-hour drive. Stay tuned as we'll try to update the blog regularly (or at least semi regularly) while we're away.